My name is Charlotte, sometimes known as Ms Lottie, occasionally as The Slightly Mad Quilt Lady. This is my blog, where you'll find me writing a lot about my quilting and textile arts and a little about my family's life in a small seaside town in New Zealand. Haere mai!
Showing posts with label garment sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label garment sewing. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Lockdown Day 20

Is it really day 20? It seems like that time has flown by. Unfortunately we've had another four deaths today. Covid-19 got into a dementia ward at a rest home and has taken it's toll on the frail and elderly.  I listen to the 1pm update with trepidation. But we also continue to have good news, such as only 17 new cases today. The numbers drop and drop.

Today I finished my Purl Soho Boxy Tee. I tried it on when the side seams were done and thought I might have to undo them and insert the ties that are suggested in version C to give it more shape, but now that it's all put together, I think I love it how it is.

Here's the photo shoot:


The instructions were easy to follow. I'm an almost beginner garment sewer and I had no trouble.


I probably would use a slightly more drapey fabric in future (when the fabric shops open), but needs must and I'll give it a good hot wash to try and soften the quilting cottons so it sits softer at the back.


And, once again, I could probably have made the size smaller as there is a little too much bulk at the side seams. Drapier fabric would probably take care of that though.


I continued to wear it after these photos and it was super comfy. Lots of ease in the armholes, no riding up or anything funky happening with the drape. I wouldn't want it any shorter, and, if I made it again, I might add another inch to the length.


I'm really pleased with my neckline. This was the bit I thought I might have trouble with. It's finished with a bias strip, which folds to the inside. But I got it first try and it lies flat and beautiful. I added another line of top stitching along the shoulder seam and the along the bottom colour block, just because I could.


Look at the finishing details! That side split is just cool! If you were thinking of purchasing any of Purl Soho's patterns, you won't be disappointed with the finishing or the instructions. 

I broke out my blind hem foot (and sewing machine instruction book!) for the hem. Not that the instructions say to finish it like that, but I wanted to give blind hemming a go, since I've never done it. Actually, it was easy, but hemming it like the pattern suggests would have given the top a cleaner finish.


Thanks to my darling daughter for taking the photos - she had fun! And made me ham it up, as you can see...

Monday, April 13, 2020

Lockdown Day 19

I was so encouraged by my garment sewing foray a couple posts back, that I've decided to dive into my next make.

I don't have any more stretch fabric (or not enough for anything significant) so I needed something that used a woven. I'm also a little bit hesitant to buy patterns until I'm more skilled in assessing what will work for me, and I need beginner friendly. Stalking round the interwebs found me the Purl Soho Boxy Tee. There were some good reviews and nice examples of tees that sewists had made up, so I decided it was something I could try my hand at.


I found a large piece of patterned quilting cotton (funnily enough that's 98% of what my fabric cupboard holds) with some matching solids for the sleeves and the colour block on the bottom of the shirt. Yesterday I cut the pieces and read the pattern thoroughly to make sure I understood it.


Today I began putting it together inbetween planting seedlings and working on an applique design I've got on the go. And here's where I'm up to. I decided to let this photo glow in all it's terrible glory. It's night time so it's horrible lighting, and I'm using the floor so you get to see my burgeoning corner scrap pile as well as where I hide things - under the drawers! But it's the only photo I've got...

The top is beautifully constructed with french seams so I'm not using my overlocker and all I have left to do is the side seams and the neck binding. The neck binding uses a bias strip, so this is the bit I might find tricky, everything else has been straightforward so far.

All going to plan, I'll have it finished tomorrow.

On the lockdown front, NZ continues to show signs that our restrictions are working. Only 19 new cases of Covid-19 today, and 75 people recovered, which means that our total number of active cases continues to drop. Unfortunately there was another death, bringing our toll to five souls. We have 15 in hospital, four of those people in ICU and one of them in a critical condition. We hope for their recovery.

Saturday, April 11, 2020

Lockdown Day 17

Garment sewing has never been my thing. I didn't take sewing in school, I never paid attention when Mum, or my garment sewing older sister sewed, and I've never been a huge fashion follower either, so haven't had a burning desire to make what I couldn't get or afford.

I have tried over the years. I remember taking a night class in my late teens, which taught me a bit. And I've made very simple kids dresses, an apron etc etc. But I'd like to be more confident to make more of my own clothes, especially as we all become more aware of what fast fashion is doing to our environment.

So a couple posts back I said I wanted to make at least one garment before lockdown was over. Well I did!


My friend Jaye pointed me in the direction of a sewalong and free pattern by The Crafty Gemini. It was for a dolman sleeved knit top. Just the kind of thing I was thinking of. I like dolman sleeves, I wanted to try sewing with knits (seeing as I've bought myself an overlocker), and I liked the idea of someone walking me through it all.

If you're interested in the videos, click here for the first in the series, you're looking for the Westchester Dolman Top.


I thought my knit wasn't stretchy enough (she shows you how to measure) so I sized generously, and I graded my hip area up to the next size. She shows you how to do that too, she's very thorough. But it turned out I was too cautious and should have stuck with the size for my measurements, and I definitely shouldn't have graded up for my hips - I should have taken a before photo show the sticky out hip bits!


Although Crafty Gemini shows you how to make this with a standard sewing machine, I was making it with my overlocker, so it was really easy for me to mark smaller once I'd tried it on and then run it through the machine again to take it in where I needed too. It's still generous, but I didn't want it form fitting so I'm happy.

My one big goof up was sewing the neckband on inside out. And because I was using my overlocker (and I'd made a really nice job of it, it sat perfectly!) I didn't want to unpick it - it really wouldn't have worked. So I decided that it was a design feature and I sewed the armbands on and hemmed it inside out too. 


I might sew the outside seam flat so it looks more like a cover stitched seam (is that what you call it?) rather than just inside out. But this was never meant to be a runway-ready piece so then again I might not bother.


I wanted slightly longer sleeves, so I added two inches and I used the wide arm band even though my size used a slimmer band. I also added an inch to the bottom length and only used a 3/4 inch hem. 

I made it in white because that was the only piece of knit fabric that I had that was big enough. So my next make (if I'm motivated) will have to be out of a woven.

So I'm wearing something I made and I'm really rather proud of myself!

Wednesday, April 8, 2020

Lockdown Day 14

I've been exchanging regular emails with my stitching group. We're a small group and in non-lockdown times we try and meet weekly for some tea and cake stitching and chatting. They are fabulous friends, caring and motivating and kind and funny and I'm missing them....

Anyhoo. I told them via email that I intended to make one item of clothing during lockdown.

There is lots of creativity and industry flying round the interwebs at the moment. There is also lots of anxiety and sadness and stress. And I get both states of being. I understand if people feel totally motivated, and I also get it if people don't.

But for me, I like the idea of coming out the other side of this strange time with something that I can show for it. Something that I can say, "I made that during lockdown." I guess that's one of the reasons I decided to write in my blog every day. It's such a weird time, sometimes overwhelming, and I wanted to mark it somehow.

I bought an overlocker at the end of last year. A second-hand Bernina 700D from a guy that services machines. It was purchased with the intention of making more of my own garments, but so far all it's made is cushions (which I blogged about here).


So there, now I've announced my plans, very publicly! I better go and see if I've got a pattern or can find one via download that I like.

I'll let you know how I go.